The Crus Preeminence of Site
We are inspired by vineyards that are remote and often a little hard to reach. Challenging sites that might give pause to even a seasoned farmer.
Through good fortune and cherished relationships, we’ve gained access to a handful of these rarified vineyards, including a high-altitude site in the Atlas Peak (Napa Valley), a windswept, undulating plateau in the western Fort Ross-Seaview (West Sonoma Coast), and a rugged, ancient landslide in the Sta. Rita Hills (Santa Barbara).
These vineyards share the radical influence of the nearby Pacific Ocean with its cooling fog and airflows, yet their underlying geography, geology and soil profiles are profoundly different. In addition to place, our perspective on organic and biodynamic farming informs both the vineyards and blocks we choose and the viticultural techniques we employ.
Waters
“The first time Jason took me up to Waters Ranch, I thought my heart might burst. The drive up to our block was remote, dirt roads twisting up to the mountain top. I was bouncing around in the passenger seat, telling him to ‘hit it!’ every time the road got steeper. It was springtime—the air was cool, but the sun kissed me with a gentle heat. My favorite lupine and other wildflowers were blooming between the vines. When we finally reached the top, I jumped out before the truck even stopped, completely lost in the moment.”
Waters Ranch
Named for a mountain spring located on the site, Waters Ranch sits at an elevation of 2100 feet on a secluded mountaintop in the southernmost reaches of Atlas Peak. With its elevated position, the site is perched above the Pacific marine layer with long, unimpeded sunlight hours. Temperatures here are influenced by the thermocline, a phenomenon that upends standard models of air movement. During warm days hot air sinks into the valley, while cooler air is suspended above. At night, it reverses, with warm air rising. The scant topsoil here (6 to 10 inches) is the result of the slow weathering of volcanic rock over time. The Hambright soil with its weathered basalts and other igneous rocks are what we view as rarefied raw material.
A Preserved Legacy
Only serious winegrowers would farm this site, the stakes too great, the rewards too painfully won. When Jayson Pahlmeyer and his then Winemaker Helen Turley came to this place in 1998, they were uncompromising in their vision to develop a vineyard and produce wines that pushed boundaries. Working with Vineyard Manager David Abreu, they turned dreams into reality, planting the best sections of the site to a single, heritage clone selection of old Wente Chardonnay. Today the ranch is under the careful watch of Cleo Pahlmeyer and Jamie Watson, who continue to farm the site with the same intention and spirit.
“There is a natural richness to this site, and in our wine we focus on highlighting the less obvious. Chiseled purity, aromatic potency, and mineral drive.”
Our Interpretation
Like a shapeshifter in the glass.....
Almost seemingly crystalline and penetrating one second, and then formless and airy the next. Always with pixelated acidity at its core. White peach, citrus blossom, lemon oil, white mineral, almond pastry. Persistent finish that can keep your attention or force you to unknowingly take another sip.
On this site we see a natural push and pull in texture from the high elevation coupled with mineral rich soils. Picked and pressed with intention. Native alcoholic and malolactic fermentation. Custom French oak. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
2023 WATERS
harvested at dawn september 9th, 2023
2 barrels
1008 bottles | 35 magnums
13.0 % alc
West Sonoma Coast
Sta Rita Hills
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