The Crus Preeminence of Site
We are inspired by vineyards that are remote and often a little hard to reach. Challenging sites that might give pause to even a seasoned farmer.
Through good fortune and cherished relationships, we’ve gained access to a handful of these rarified vineyards, including a high-altitude site in the Atlas Peak (Napa Valley), a windswept, undulating plateau in the western Fort Ross-Seaview (West Sonoma Coast), and a rugged, ancient landslide in the Sta. Rita Hills (Santa Barbara).
These vineyards share the radical influence of the nearby Pacific Ocean with its cooling fog and airflows, yet their underlying geography, geology and soil profiles are profoundly different. In addition to place, our perspective on organic and biodynamic farming informs both the vineyards and blocks we choose and the viticultural techniques we employ.
Waters
“The first time Jason took me up to Waters Ranch, I thought my heart might burst. The drive up to our block was remote, dirt roads twisting up to the mountain top. I was bouncing around in the passenger seat, telling him to ‘hit it!’ every time the road got steeper. It was springtime—the air was cool, but the sun kissed me with a gentle heat. My favorite lupine and other wildflowers were blooming between the vines. When we finally reached the top, I jumped out before the truck even stopped, completely lost in the moment.”
Waters Ranch
Named for a mountain spring located on the site, Waters Ranch sits at an elevation of 2100 feet on a secluded mountaintop in the southernmost reaches of Atlas Peak. With its elevated position, the site is perched above the Pacific marine layer with long, unimpeded sunlight hours. Temperatures here are influenced by the thermocline, a phenomenon that upends standard models of air movement. During warm days hot air sinks into the valley, while cooler air is suspended above. At night, it reverses, with warm air rising. The scant topsoil here (6 to 10 inches) is the result of the slow weathering of volcanic rock over time. The Hambright soil with its weathered basalts and other igneous rocks are what we view as rarefied raw material.
A Preserved Legacy
Only serious winegrowers would farm this site, the stakes too great, the rewards too painfully won. When Jayson Pahlmeyer and his then Winemaker Helen Turley came to this place in 1998, they were uncompromising in their vision to develop a vineyard and produce wines that pushed boundaries. Working with Vineyard Manager David Abreu, they turned dreams into reality, planting the best sections of the site to a single, heritage clone selection of old Wente Chardonnay. Today the ranch is under the careful watch of Cleo Pahlmeyer and Jamie Watson, who continue to farm the site with the same intention and spirit.
“There is a natural richness to this site, and in our wine we focus on highlighting the less obvious. Chiseled purity, aromatic potency, and mineral drive.”
Our Interpretation
Like a shapeshifter in the glass.....
Almost seemingly crystalline and penetrating one second, and then formless and airy the next. Always with pixelated acidity at its core. White peach, citrus blossom, lemon oil, white mineral, almond pastry. Persistent finish that can keep your attention or force you to unknowingly take another sip.
On this site we see a natural push and pull in texture from the high elevation coupled with mineral rich soils. Picked and pressed with intention. Native alcoholic and malolactic fermentation. Custom French oak. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
2023 WATERS
Harvested at dawn, September 9th 2023
1020 bottles | 35 magnums
13.0 % alc
The Goldener
“The drive to Fort Ross-Seaview was no joke. Two hours of winding roads, each turn carving closer to the ocean’s edge. The moment we stepped out of the truck the air here was different—thick with salt, pine, and something ancient, something that was here long before vineyards ever touched this land. The trees twisted and gnarled, shaped by relentless coastal winds. This place wasn’t just remote. It was primal.”
The Goldener
The remote vineyard that is home to The Goldener sits high on a ridgeline at 1,100 feet, a narrow plateau that parallels the San Andreas Fault before falling away into deep canyons on either side. Just three miles from the Pacific in the Fort Ross-Seaview AVA, the site is in constant dialogue with the ocean - lush fog rolls inland at night, draping the vines, leaves and grapes in cool moisture like a tonic. The interplay of warm and cold is palpable here: crisp air is permeated with sea spray, contrasting with sunny, afternoon skies and golden grasses that ripple across the surrounding hillsides that recede into forest. Light takes on pixelated patterns, refracting both from above and off the Goldridge soils beneath the vines.
Primal Land
It’s a wonder this site was ever planted at all, given its remote, rugged setting. Yet in the late 1990s, a visionary vintner renowned for her groundbreaking Chardonnays chose this out of-the-way spot, grafting vines from cuttings taken from another celebrated Chardonnay vineyard. Within the Fort Ross–Seaview AVA, where only a few small vineyards sit on the edge of grape-growing possibility, this organically-farmed parcel is especially rare. The second vineyard we harvest each year, it radiates both history and mystique, a place reflected in the primal character it imparts to the wine.
"Fort Ross-Seaview is a place of paradox, the sun generous, the air bracing, the soils austere. The Goldener is our response: a Chardonnay of luminous fruit, vibrant structure, a subtle warmth from the long coastal days."
Our Interpretation
The Goldener moves with resonance...
Broad strokes of golden apple, quince, lemon oil, orchard blossom, acacia, and brioche, each layered over a cool mineral thread. A glow of warmth expands across the palate, yet is continually drawn back into focus by coastal tension. The finish stains with fruit and mineral — pure, amplified, hypnotic.
This ridgeline parcel, rooted in Goldridge soils at 1,100 feet in Fort Ross-Seaview, balances extremes: radiant exposure by day and ocean-cooled nights that hold acidity tight. Whole-cluster pressed, guided by native fermentations, and raised in custom French oak tailored to the site. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
2023 The Goldener
Harvested at night, October 4th 2023
1020 bottles | 35 magnums
13.0 % alc
Sta Rita Hills
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